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Steve's Blog

Tour Divide 2017 Steve Halligan

9/29/2017

3 Comments

 
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​TRULY AMAZING LIFE ENHANCING EXPERIENCE 


Here i go now
On my  epic  adventure
Chasing the dream
Living the dream


Tour Divide time is here ,
Seeds were planted years ago,
They germinated and became a force,
I knew quickly, i had to do this race ,
this ride , this personal quest.
I was hooked .


Hammer Springs , New Zealand .
My home now ,
Perfect base for Training with long rides amongst the mountains and river valleys .
I am Truly Grateful.


This will be my  biggest meditation, 
Every single moment ,
Every single day,
Present moment focus.


I am both nervous and excited now,
Days away from spinning out of Banff, Canada.
A journey to enliven the senses,
A personal challenge, physically and mentally.
A journey through immense landscapes,
Connected  with animals, nature  and the elements.
I will ride the trails on a wave of discovery.


Thank you to all for all your support,
Thank you family in the Emerald isles,
And my Vibrant family and friends in Hanmer Springs , NZ.
See you all soon !!!
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I wrote this poem as i was soaring high in the sky , over beautiful  snow clad mountains below  after leaving Christchurch, high above  The land of the Long White Cloud , i was on my way . Adventure and fun starts here .

​



I had 3 days in Canmore and Banff before the Grand Depart , i was relaxed and super  excited for my Rookie ride of the Divide .. 
   From reading  most of the excellent Cordillera books i knew that plans can  get blown apart and that riders  need to be adaptable and flexible to  many potential scenarios  that can occur on this mammoth 4400 kilometre  journey .
     This rang true for me after about 80 miles . After riding fast  with the front  guys  i came unstuck in the infamous Peanut Butter mud , it really is super sticky !
   This sticky mud was  enhanced by the  persistent cold rain that was falling , i was not expecting to encounter this mud  so early in the race .
After pushing , pulling  and looking for a better path  along the roadsides , i was coming to the end of this section . I just kept saying ‘ its the same for everyone today ‘, This too shall pass'.
   I scraped as much mud off  the important parts on the bike for forward movement . I threw my leg over the bike , engaged with the pedal , put pressure down as i lifted the other leg to clip in to the pedal . A horrible sound  arose from the rear of my bike , Looking down  at my  badly twisted Rear Derailleur my heart sank . The mounting bracket was badly bent and the inner plate was totally smashed .  Damn it !! Damn mud!!
   A few deep breaths were required, i needed to remain calm , i then pushed my bike down the road to look for a river or stream to wash down the bike . Not far away was a fast flowing river where  i cleaned up. Close by, there was  a  big  Digger parked up  along the road, i used this to prop my bike against.  Plenty of racers had already passed by , some  checking i was ok and others head down on their  Day one mission 
  Time to assess the damage .  I had never had to or attempted to  change a bike to single speed , now i was faced with the challenge . Ultimately,   after  an hour or so  , i was  in the same place , no success .  The chain would either slip down the sprocket , become incredibly tight  or just snap . I’d had enough , I had to move , i pushed on up the road with dark thoughts complementing  the dark skies that were releasing the cold rain . Many more racers passed , with many stopping to see if i was ok . Obviously there was nothing they could do , but i did appreciate their concern and encouragement .   
      Day one turned out to be the first mental test of the Tour Divide , and I admit I was cursing my luck  and was very disappointed   as i walked along  in dreary  conditions  knowing that I would be losing so much time .
   I trudged into the small town of  Elkford  just before 10pm , got some food at the Gas station  and  got a room in an overpriced run down Motel . Before sleeping , i talked with my wife, Mary Jo  back  home in New Zealand . This was an incredible boost , as she reminded me  of my bigger 'why';  why was I on my bike in the first place ?  For the pure adventure, exhilaration and freedom.

  Up early the next day ,i knew i had to get to a  town called Fernie, the nearest  place with Bike shops to repair my broken bike. I hung around the Gas station in Elkford asking various people , were they heading  to Fernie…?  It was pretty quiet in this sleepy town on an overcast saturday morning ,  i went across the road to another Gas station / Cafe  and went inside to get a coffee . 
    I started chatting to a friendly 84 year old man named Albert , After telling him my story , he said he would bring me too Fernie . Amazing !  Even more Amazing ,  he  brought me back to Elkford a few hours later , after i got my bike all fixed up . Albert had given me his phone number and went to visit his brother  nearby . The guys at Straight line Bicycles  were really great , putting my bike on the stand immediately . A big thank you to the French mechanic ,sorry, forgot his name,  who improvised brilliantly to build a custom cage  around the bottom jockey wheel , so the chain would not keep dropping out .  The reason this was necessary   was because they did not have any inner plates   of Di2 specific derailleur  and  all the ones they did have were very slightly  different .  Another case of big Brand companies not making  components compatible, even if its the same brand,?  does not make sense . This improvised cage lasted brilliantly ,   all the way to Salida , although the two previous days , it had started to annoyingly jump off the jockey wheel .  ​
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Albert stopped at a Gas station on the way back to Elkford , i got some supplies and paid for Fuel  as a thank you for he's amazing  kindness.
   I rolled out of Elkford  before 3pm on Day two  and headed down the road to rejoin the route . I was  so happy to be on the move , back in the race  and riding my bike . I was reinvigorated , my chat with Mary jo and the kindness of Albert  had boosted my mood hugely.  I was feeling strong  after my easy day , and started catching riders  through this very tough section . As i gained elevation , the skies became dark , the temperatures dropped and the trail became increasingly rough.   It was snowing and cold through the  gnarly terrain of this re route ,as i made my way  back to Fernie , this time on two  wheels ! I did not stop long in Fernie and rode maybe 60 kms past into the night stopping at 1am , camping along the roadside . I was on the move again at 4.30 am .


    I was really enjoying myself now . I covered lots miles in the next few days , i was feeling really strong  and passing lots of riders . The weather was mixed to say the least but i did not mind, i was having fun .
   I remember catching  a Canadian rider just before the border at Roosville, he must have being keeping a check on Trackleaders  as he said we were now in 47th and 48 th place. The sun was out as i rode into Eureka for a big Breakfast .
  The next week flew by  with  so many memorable moments , too many to go into here  but here are a few vivid memories . 
     Day 3 was a great day with spectacular scenery  , plenty of snow on the Whitefish and Red Meadow Passes  and some great riding . I  was ready  for sleep  once i got to Whitefish .
    The next day , the weather was good all the way up and over Richmond Pass ,  as i was flying down this super fast  descent  i noticed dark clouds  of an approaching  storm.  I got hit by torrential rain  about  20 kms  from Ovando  as thunder rumbled loudly and bright flashes lit the dark skies. I arrived at the store /Hotel   between 6 and 7pm , absolutely soaked and cold. My  plan to get to Lincoln  went out the window as i decided to stay in the comfy Horse Carriage  across the road . Glad i made this decision  as i later heard the ride over Huckleberry pass that evening was  very tough with torrential rain and big lightning .


  The next day  I stopped in Helena , cold and wet , getting a motel earlier than i would have liked, although it was great to get warm and dry out  before arising  very early to make the steady climb up Grizzly Gulch road.
       Another massive day and spectacular  scenery as i headed towards Polaris. Eventually i reached The High Country Lodge, where Rus had stayed up late to welcome me  with food and a bed . 
     A couple more huge days through huge mountains with plenty of rain , i was at the Lava Mountain Lodge  , wet and cold once again , my fingers were so numb they would not function properly . Earlier as i was descending fast  off Togwotee pass on the highway in the sleety cold rain i missed the turn to Brooks lake rd . Luckily  i had just gone a couple of kms past the turn before realising , although a headwind going back up was tough going .
        There was plenty of snow on this section , it  took  a lot longer than anticipated , i would not be getting to Union Pass this evening .
    Another very early start on Day 9 , still raining and i was headed for Union Pass. There was a couple of nasty sections  of mud  before i came to the snow on the higher ground . Lots of  shiny glaring eyes  were watching me as i ascended in the dark , bright and curious in the beam os my head torch . I wondered what animals these eyes belonged to and at the same time it was best not to overthink it . Just keep moving !! This was  a very tough section that took hours to get through . Even after getting through all the snow, the descent on the other side was a challenge  as it was   very wet and muddy . 
     Finally as    rode down off the mountain , the skies cleared  and the sun was shining . I vividly remember the feeling of the warm sun on my skin , it was amazing after all the cold and wet of the previous days . 
    I was rejuvenated  and felt great as i hammered it into Pinedale . The terrain now was  so much different than what I had just come through . I sped along these dusty roads in the barren landscape  as the sun warmed my tired body. After a long  day   I  camped at Diagnus Well  , 40 or so kms out of Atlantic city .
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So the end of Day 9 , i was feeling really good , i was doing big days , got through nasty weather and my body and mind were in good shape .
​

   By now I had passed many riders on my mission to get into the top ten . I really enjoyed chatting to most people as I passed . Really  cool to see  how  the other riders were doing  , all on their journeys and aiming to achieve their  goals .   
   My race was now a lot different  than if I had'nt  lost 24 hours on Day 1  with my Derailleur issue ,  I was meeting more riders than I might have if  i had being chasing at the front of the race . I had to adapt  and accept and just get on with it. My mood changed hugely after  meeting Albert in Elkford , who had given me the lift to and from Fernie , to get my Derailleur  fixed. Also my short conversation with my wife Mary Jo back in New Zealand helped immensely  propel  me  into week one .
      I  was riding the Divide , my Dream of many years , i just had to ride my bike , find food and water each day  and of course breath . Breathing in this stunning  scenery , absorbing this experience  , taking each moment  as it comes . This was my biggest Meditation  so far . 


    The ride to Wamsutter and on to Brush mountain Lodge was  tough with Hot and windy conditions , this was the first day that my legs felt like they had no energy . I got to the Lodge and  was greeted   by   a super hug from lovely Kirsten . After food and a shower  i decided to sleep and get up for an early start . I needed this re set   after pushing  hard for 9 days solid . Once again , i made the best decision , as i was totally rejuvenated  on the morning of Day 10.


  It was a great feeling to be in Colorado , i was feeling great as i flew down to Steamboat Springs ,  resupplied  and headed out into the lush green valley . 
    As the terrain changed once more to dry and dusty , i caught up with  Kiwi Rob Davidson , 3 time  finisher of the tour , as he cleaned his drive chain  . It was great to chat to Rob  , someone i knew  from riding Brevets back home in New Zealand .  Eventually i pulled away as we settled into our own rhythms once more.
    The next few days  were  hot , but i did not mind , i was feeling good  and happy with my pace , i had  achieved my goal of getting into the top ten  and was  going to ride to the end as fast as i could .
I really enjoyed the ride  from Breckenridge , through the expansive barren  lands to Hartsel ,after this the tough rolling hills towards Salida  were starting to take their toll, i was happy to have an extended rest as my bike got some TLC  at Absolute Bikes .Thank you to the friendly people here.
    After  getting bike repairs done,  having a rest and plenty of food  i was ready to leave early evening for the long climb up over Marshall Pass . I remember feeling so strong as i rode up , that i had thoughts of riding through the night  to gain more time on those in front . However a few hours later on the gravel road  somewhere past Doyleville ,  i was  almost sleeping on my bike  with early signs of Hallucinations . It was time to stop and camp roadside in the bush .
   In Del Norte  i  heard that we  needed to do a re route  further on because of bush fires .  I pushed on over Indiana pass.  Eventually i got to Platoro, bought some supplies at the small store in the friendly lodge and got some more details of the fire re route that lay ahead.
      Another couple of days riding in the searing sun with  angry Thunderstorms never far away , i was in Pie Town , just before they shut .  Food and free pie  and i was all set to leave  about 6pm   as it rained lightly . I stopped in to check out the famous Toaster House .  Nobody was around , it was tempting to stay and sleep , but i decided to push on  to an empty campground where  i slept well on the floor of a Toilet block .
   My Day 16  ride through the Gila Wilderness was  another long hot day on the bike with plenty of climbing . I knew the end was near , i was super motivated , even thinking i could get to Silver City that night .  This did not happen   as i got caught in  huge thunderstorms  about   60 kms before  Sapillo  campground .  As i was getting pelted with pretty big hailstones   i looked for shelter , i jumped into a large under road drainage tunnel , my bike   even fitted  in , it was dry, perfect to sit this out .   Unfortunately after 10 minutes , my Tunnel refuge started to fill with water , Fast !  Damn, Time to move.
    Back out into the torrential rain , thunder and lightning . Over the next 20 kms the storm eased  as i rode to the Sapillo campground . Decided to camp  here  and rest  , ready for the final push to Antelope wells  the next day .
      I started my final day very early , eventually finding the trail for the CDT alternate route .  I quickly realised that i was not feeling great . I was fatigued , no energy . I felt  unsafe to ride in the dark  and must have taken 5 power naps along this section . I cannot remember how long it took , but it was the longest night of my Tour Divide Adventure . My legs were so dead  i had doubts that i could reach  The border that day. Time for focus and positive thoughts once again.
     Thank fully as the day  got brighter with the glorious sun  , my energy came back and my legs finally fired up as  i rode into Silver city for a late breakfast .


    At this stage i was in 4th place in the race , my final position as i would not catch anybody else .
I was delighted with this  as i looked forward to enjoying my last day on the trail .
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Pre Tour Divide 2017 

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Post Tour Divide 2017 

I enjoyed a nice ride on the wide highway  , before turning  off  at White Signal  and  headed towards  Separ .
    I stopped at the store in Separ for 30 mins or more , i had cold drinks and ice cream.  As i was  lying on  a bench on the shady  verandah  outside the store, one of the sales persons came out and asked  'Are you Steve Halligan'?  A bit perplexed , i said "yes" .  There was a phone call for me .It was a  friend , Cliff , from Western USA , whom is a regular visitor to  New Zealand  to do some of our long distance  Brevets. This was  a really brilliant surprise call  out of the blue. It was great to have a brief chat with Cliff before setting out into the heat once more.
     I was tired  and excited to be  almost at the end of the race   and at the same time a little sad as i knew  that tomorrow , i would not be riding my bike on this adventure .  But also knowing that new adventures will be created . 
   From Separ i had called Jeff Sharpe , asking him for a pick up from the border  and  for a place to stay for the night .  He , of course was willing , as  he does every year , he goes out of his way to look after  weary Tour Divide Riders .   As i rode into  Hachita , Jeff himself was  there on the roadside taking some photos . I stopped briefly  at a small store ,  looked like it was the only place open in this dry dusty  outpost town , and enjoyed the best can of coke  that i ve ever had .. 
    Jeff  enthusiastically informed me that it was downhill all the way to the border ( not entirely true ,  but  its what i wanted to hear i suppose ) and i d be there in 3 hours .
    It was a beautiful evening as i rode  the  sealed road  on my way to the Mexican border . The sky was  a dramatic  mix of colour as the sun went down  interspersed  with some dark clouds lingering over the distant mountains . It was a perfect evening to ride the final hours of this journey.
     The mile markers ticked by , one by one , i was getting closer .  Thoughts of finishing this incredible journey brought up many emotions , tears welled in my eyes , looking to escape into the dryness of New Mexico . 
  Everyday i was Grateful , grateful to  be out here doing this amazing ride through amazing scenery and meeting  some very cool people . Gratitude for  all the support , Grateful  for  my body , my breath , my bike, my resilience and focus………..  everything . 
     I  arrived at the border  about 10pm , it was eerily quiet , Jeff had not yet arrived , i was the only one there , it was perfect . I sat and looked up at the expansive starry sky  and enjoyed just sitting , just being , not having to pedal anymore .
      Jeff arrived  with  sandwiches, water  and soft drinks . What a legend ! 
Ten minutes later my wife called me  from New Zealand ,  she was very excited and happy .    Jeff insisted i pose for some photos  at the sign with my bike , before we loaded up and made our way back to Jeffs house  near Hachita .
  Back at jeffs place was Stefan Marrtens and Ben Steurbaut , two fellow  TD racers  from Belgium . Stefan  unfortunately had to pull the pin in Abiquiu , a couple of days before  and Ben has finished in Third place .Jay Petravy arrived the next day after smashing out a brilliant ITT.  Rob Davidson  also finished  later that day  just before i left for Tuscon . He was shattered  but happy after completing a fantastic  strong ride .
   This Journey had come to an end , i was onto the next .  So many memories , that  i am still  putting them together in  my mind , a couple of months after finishing .
   Any one thinking of doing the Tour Divide , should definitely do it .It is a challenge on many levels , its transformational  and it will change you . Its an opportunity to challenge yourself  to do something so epic thats its beyond the realms of most people . 
   Going into this   my aim was to  ride as fast as possible to the end , have Fun  and Finish . I  achieved all this and more , every day was an adventure , every moment was lived to the fullest out there in glorious  nature   embracing the elements . I do intend to come back and do it again .
      Thank You  Mathew lee and Team for looking after this beautiful ride …. Thank you to my wife , Mary jo for her unwavering support before, during and after  and the team at Vibrant Living Retreat   for looking after the place so well while i was away .  A big Thanks to Andrew, Peter and the team at Hub Cycles , Christchurch for putting all my bike together  and making it a super comfy ride for adventures like this .
     Thank s to AWAKEN Bars , from Nelson  who  very generously sponsored me   some Nutritious  goodness that was very much appreciated on the long remote sections.
        

​ Thank you to everyone who made it all unforgettable  .

   Steve Halligan  (17.14.01) 

Discover more great endurance and updated cycling blogs from Steve at his personal website. www.selfpropelled13.com

Follow his cycling adventures on Instagram: @halligan.steve 
​​
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Photos Taken Pre Starting Ride. Ready Steady . . . ! 

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Photos taken along the 4400km ride of T.D 2017 

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3 Comments
Cliff Clermont
11/8/2017 01:32:26 pm

Steve - great recap! Stellar effort! All the best.

Reply
Matty Graham
11/10/2017 10:58:40 pm

Legend!

Reply
Rob Davidson
5/10/2018 05:42:28 pm

Just read your account of your ride.. A great write-up and a spectacular effort. It was great to meet up with you on Lynx Pass even if it was a little soul destroying that you were so much stronger.. impressive.. All the best..

Reply



Leave a Reply.

    Steve Halligan 

    I started to discover my passion for Mountain Biking  a few months after I arrived in Hanmer Springs in 2009. That was 9 years ago and today I am grateful to live my cycling passions and discover new adventures to be had. In 2017 riding Tour Divide was my most epic adventurous ride across America 4400km completed in 17 days. It is only the beginning . . .  ! Biking is my calling; man with nature, each ride a personal vision quest, a wonderful meditation connecting deeper with life and its inner rhythms of breath, movement, endurance, recovery and new vision being birthed on the heels of old ones being completed. 

    I am delighted to share information on the great biking trails where I live in the alpine village of Hanmer Springs, South Island, New Zealand through my blog and website
    ​www.Vibrant Living.co.nz

    Please visit Steve's personal BLOG website for more recent posts and updates . 
    www.selfpropelled13.com

    ​Follow Steve on Instagram:
    @halligan.steve 

    ​

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